Aberdeen, Carlisle. June 19.


Nic and I were happy to realize when we awoke this morning that the car was still there, and none of the windows had been removed during the night. I had selected a hotel near city center Aberdeen, and within minutes of arrival we had two unpleasant encounters in Scottish English which neither of us are 100% sure we understood. Both of us began to question our choices in life thus far as we walked up to our room. The hotel had promised on-site parking. They just failed to mention they only had 5 spots. Guess what?! They were all filled with other cars when arrived. 

Things improved when we awoke to a nice breakfast, and a day of Highland Games before us (And a fully intact car). 

We went to these Highland Games fully expecting the Olympics of Scotland. I anticipated mass crowds, heavy whiskey drinking, Scottish dancing, and wild debauchery. I also really wanted some nice Scottish souvenirs. When we arrived, exactly at the opening of the games, was a small county fair type event - in Aberdeen. Let's be clear, Aberdeen is the third largest city in Scotland - I had expectations. That was my first mistake. Our Highland Games had three vendors selling weird hand carved items, some odd paintings, and knives. Nic explained to me in no uncertain terms he had no interested in me trying to get knives back into the US. The only other thing there to squander money on was ice cream, fish and chips and burgers. 

It was deflating.

But Nic was fully, 100% invested in this day - and it was Father's Day, so Highland Games it was - for SEVEN hours in the rain and the wind. To be clear, Highland Games are very culturally rich experiences. I highly recommend if you choose to participate in this experience that you go during the last two hours of the day, from 3:30-5:30. You will see the best events, hear some bagpipe, see some dancing, and leave with your sanity and eardrums intact. As I sit here in the hotel, I can still hear bagpipe music. My head is vibrating. I have encountered 7 hours of bagpiping. I feel infinitely sorry for the Scottish parents of bagpipers. I cannot imagine what one does when their child decides to take up bagpiping - in Scotland, where it rains all of the time. Where would these children practice? I thought violin was bad, the bagpipe humbles me.

I am glad we went because I was disappointed. I know that doesn't make sense, but I grew up going to the Coconino County Fair with balloon animals, and huge teddy bears and tons of garbage no one needs, but buys anyway. It was really refreshing to see a community gather to listen to each other play extraordinarily loud instruments, participate in sporting events - some very poorly (Seriously, Tim Tubby participated. Tim was about 65, overweight, and very ambitious. He hung in to the very last event, placing last in every event, but doing so cheerfully and wholeheartedly. He was the crowd favorite by far. We all knew his name. We all cheered louder for him than any of the young bucks who were actually winning), and to suffer together simply to be together. Parts of it were great fun. We saw Vlad, from the Czech Republic slay his Scottish competitors in the heavy category. We saw a LOT of men in kilts in atrocious weather. It was truly horrendous. I had on 2 pair of pants, 3 shirts and 4 jackets. I was colder than cold in June. I also know what men in kilts wear under their kilts - shorts. It was not exciting, folks. The Scottish folk have grit and determination and they must be mad to live here. I now understand why so many Scottish folk jumped in boats to go to America, what could be worse??? I think this group of people may be the wisest Scots I know. I understand now how much of America was settled through grit, determination, and people who were accustomed to a great deal of suffering.

I was glad to be disappointed because it made me reflect on why we go to do things and experience things. It made me think about my own culture and society. It gave me pause. How many bags of cotton candy does one really need? Or candy apples? Or balloon animals and fake tattoos? Probably not that many. 

And I had seven hours in which to pause, freeze, and think. I am thankful we went to these crazy games. I am also thankful that Nic is satisfied with the experience and does not need to revisit it any time soon. It was great for today. 


I took this picture to capture the wide number of kilts, and the misery of the general audience. It totally sucked.

There were so many bagpipers it was unbelievable. There were classes of bagpipers. Some people were even smaller than their bagpipes. I tried to capture this experience for you and for Nic and I to remember for always.







Sometimes people march with their bagpipes.


Sometimes people bagpipe alone.


Bagpiping is versatile, portable, and a group activity, or a solo activity. 


It really sucked. Everyone agreed. But it sucked in a really fun way that you know you will do again first chance you get. Maybe.




Here I am. Frozen.




There was a tug-of-war contest.


And a lot of throwing of heavy things. This is Vlad. Vlad is amazing.




Here the Vikings men were throwing the kaber. People love this. 





More kaber, or caber, depending on your spelling.


Then they threw heavy things over that really high bar.






Vlad broke the record for the Aberdeen Highland Games. Everyone cheered, even though the announcer repeatedly told us he was from Czech Republic. I think he hoped we would love him less. We did not.




Then all of the bands marched at once. They played the same song they had played all day except louder.

Note to self: If I ever attend another Highland Games I will come very late. I will bring a picnic. I will wearing running shoes and join the events because why the hell not. The only requirement is traditional dress and I think I can pull that off. I might also bring earplugs.



Nic and I jumped in the car with a long ride before us to Carlisle, home of Thomas Carlisle, a literary friend of mine. We stayed in a hotel across from this citadel, which we found pretty fancy and enjoyed looking at as we sought a drink before bed. We had booked our fancy hotel on Priceline and wondered at our excellent luck with the price. Turns out the elevator is broken in this fancy hotel AND they booked us on the 3rd floor, which is really the 4th floor in America. So Nic had his own Highland Games getting my enormous suitcase up the stairs. He must really love me because he carried my 48.8 pound suitcase all the way up. Let this be a lesson to you, friends. There is no such thing as a free lunch.


We are thankful for this time in Scotland as we head back to England tomorrow and down the eastern side of the island.

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